Geoffrey Cook
There are many aspects to be considered when building an aviary, not the least that few of the 'Shed Heads' around know exactly what is needed, so if this is to be a custom built job you need to know exactly what is needed in order to guide them. Better if you can to build your own.
Now why should one need an aviary? The answer is mostly a matter of numbers which exceed the capacity of the owners home and possibly a wish to breed. A further question often asked is whether exotic birds can stand the cold outside and this will of course vary and influence the design. I do know that my Cockatiels have survived several cold winters outside with shelter but no form of heating and my friend Linda Carl in USA has had Quakers outside in bitter temperatures though she has used brooder lights at times to give minimal warmth.
So let us accept that we have investigated all aspects and want to build a small aviary. Not a large building with heating lighting and plumbing though that would be nice, but a small one for a few birds with breeding in mind, and which can be put up by anyone with basic carpentry skills. I have built three like this and offer this commentary on the construction of the latest one for my four Kakariki. Some photos will show the various stages and elements. In order to simplify the build I decided on a custom built shed which I would convert and to which I would add outdoor flights as needed, with access through a closable hatch. Other considerations are the need for 'air lock' doors to each area for security of the birds, simple feeding stations, easy cleaning and the provision of nest boxes. Low level heating would provide some protection from frost and extreme cold and an interior light has recently been added for late evening checking.
 |
 |
 |
|
Stage
One
|
Stage
Two
|
Stage
Three
|
The 6' x 4' shed was purchased and erected on a prepared base of preserved timbers rather than concrete as it would be a little warmer, concrete of course would allow for hosing down but more of that later. Once erected as shown in Photo 1 the front was modified by the removal of panels which would be replaced by wire netting. This wire I purchase in large rolls from the supplier a much cheaper option than the DIY store, I use 1/2" x 1" 16swg normally as this is plenty strong enough for my small birds and still gives good visibility. Heavier 19 or even 23 swg may be needed for larger breeds but his would be with the penalty of lower visibility.
Next came the fitting out of the interior with that all important inner door. I built a frame inside which is visible in the photos, fitted a simple wire covered small frame door and closed the remainder off with wire netting. The doors open outwards so that full use of the interior can be made for perches, swings and other fittings. Another bonus is that with careful measuring the inner door will swing back against the outer one and close that in case of accidental opening. The first area now inside the main door is useful as a storage area and shelves have been fitted to hold various items which will not suffer the cold or heat including mouse proof seed bins and spare food dishes.
Fitting out the aviary with perches is a fairly simple job and I like to hang mine from the roof using rope loops fixed with screws and holding the natural branch perches with plastic cable ties. The birds love playing with the loose ends of these ties so I never cut them off. The rope loops can be made with simple loop splicing or the end simply doubled over and tied in place. The heaters I use are of the tube type and I mount them inside with a wire shelf over them and a couple of pieces of roofing tile on top of that. This allows the birds to perch comfortably over the heat which is only equivelant to a 100W light bulb if they so wish. They usually choose not to. Having completed the interior fitting the outer wire can be fixed in place and believe me it is worth while leaving this until last so that tools and items can be passed in easily.
 |
 |
 |
|
Stage
Four
|
Stage
Five
|
Stage
Six
|
Floor dressing comes next and this can be controversial as to the materials. I personally use wood chip dressing which is easily picked over for waste fresh food and scooped up where regular perching places creates a build up of poop. Other use corn husk as it is a natural material, or sawdust but care has to be taken to avoid toxic woods being mixed in with that. The birds generally all love to forage in the dressing so I believe my wood chip is the best and is sold specifically for this purpose so should be free of toxics. I would never use scented material beloved of hamster and rabbit owners.
During the removal of the front panels I also cut out a hole in the side of the building and constructed a sliding hatch, raised and lowered with cords running inside plastic tubing. This allows the birds to be closed in when I need to work in the outside flight and for winter nights to help keep the low heat level stable. So now I am ready for the construction of an outside flight and have to say that the layout of my garden has dictated that I set this to the side of the building that is not totally necessary in all cases but does give the maximum visibility of the birds. The flight is simply constructed with wire covered frames then screwed together, fixed against the building and standing again on heavy ground timbers. The soil is covered with black polythene to prevent excessive growth of weeds and seeds then covered in a thick layer of gravel allowing some hosing down to be carried out.
The timber I use for these frames is 2" x 1" roofing battens from the builders yard which are pressure treated and rough sawn, by far the cheapest timber for the job. Once painted over with a timber paint they look as good as any other more expensive material. Of course we have to be careful that the birds cannot chew too much of this wood so all timbers have the wire fixed to the inner faces. Again with some roof timbers in place natural perches are slung in rope loops which makes fixing and replacing easy. I do roof over part of the outside flight so that the birds can be dry yet outside, while the open area allows the 'tiels to bathe in the rain. The outside flight does also need access via a double door arrangement and I will be adding this shortly.
As the construction progressed all timbers were treated with a timber paint, regrettably necessary for long life and no birds allowed near this for at least a week after application. Other maintenance is low with this construction, an annual painting to the exterior, a weekly pick over of floor dressing and an occasional wash down of interior walls are the main tasks. The only thing I regret is not having a water tap close by and maybe one day I will run a line down the garden, for now the outside tap has to suffice. Nest boxes are all inside the building and for the larger summer house aviary I have a bank of four and in the Kakariki aviary there are currently three all at different heights. Locating them at the right height to be able to look in is the biggest problem I have encountered.
© Copyright Geoffrey Cook 2003